But others seemed like a jumble of Italian and something else.
I knew Naples had its own dialect, distinct from the rest of Italy, but some of the stuff on the posters was nearly indecipherable. I got the gist, but that was about it.
Not only had I come to a new city…
But it felt like a new country with a language I didn’t understand.
Great.
Just great.
I was starving, so along the way, I stopped in a shop and got a couple of slices of Margherita pizza – just crushed tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, and basil.
And DAMN it was good.
Neapolitan pizza had lighter and aerier crust than what I was used to in Florence, and the cheese and tomatoes were incredibly fresh.
For the first time ever, I thought, If I can eat like this every day, maybe Naples won’t be so bad.
I finally reached the hotel. It was down a grimy alleyway in one of the worst parts of historic Naples.
As advertised, it was only 50 euros a night.
You get what you pay for.
The ‘lobby’ was ten by twelve feet with scuffed, dirty linoleum on the floor.
The walls were dingy white with a picture of – what else – Maradona in his light blue Napoli jersey.
The check-in counter was basically just a closet with a desk in the doorway.
The unshaven old man behind the counter was watching a football game on his cell phone. I could hear the announcer and the roar of the crowd.
“I’d like a room, please,” I said.
“How long?” he asked without looking up.
“I don’t know. I just moved here and I’ve got to find a job.”
He absolutely did not care. “Credit card.”
“I don’t have one.”
It was true; they’re not that common for college students in Italy.
“Hundred euro deposit along with 50 for the night. You’ll get the hundred back when you check out – if you don’t mess up the room.”
If the room was in the same shape as the rest of the place, I wondered what the hell you had to do to mess it up.
I turned away from him to count off 150 euros from the wad Fausto had given me. I didn’t want anybody in a sketchy place like this knowing I had several grand.
After the old guy took the money, he checked my student ID from Florence, wrote my name in a coffee-stained notebook, and gave me a big brass skeleton key.
“401,” he said, then went back to watching football on his cell phone.
“Where’s the elevator?” I asked.
“No elevator,” he said without looking up. “Just the stairs.”